New Fringe.. Realistic Oriental Styles
Antique appeal fringe
Reyarn worn binding...hand sewn
Patching holes or refill missing yarn
Sew up those loose stitches
Organic odor control enzymes..
Focus on common conditions for
..hi-traffic , food areas , pet zones
Time to get it cleaned !
PROPERLY POSITION RUG
Spot Cleaning and Spills..
Fold over a towel and step on it. Blot the wet out. If you have a wet vac..wipe hose end and be gentle when using it ..avoid vigorous scrubbing action. White vinegar for red wine spills neutralizes tannins. Mildly sudsy water for grease stains. Spray bottles are great to prevent over saturation.. Clear water to rinse. blot or vac. repeat.. Always go in direction of knap. Be gentle. Some rugs get irreversibly scruffy..silks..chinese rugs..some fine persians and turkish rugs.. Be gentle. More details below.
Today's modern carpet resists stains and spots better than ever..but do not wait to deal with it. Many stains
get better results with immediate care before the stain sets. Super fantastic stain resistant carpet still has its limitations.
So grab an old towel preferably. Paper towels are ok. Fold the towel over and step on it to blot the wet out. Avoid brightly dyed towels which can come off on your rug creating a worse problem.
A spoon will work to get the bulk of food spills and pet solids. Don't rub the stain. It can
fray the rug. Brushing vigorously can fray the rug too. Easy does it.
Clear water works well with most stains to provide a vehicle to move the stain. Spray it if you have an empty clean spray bottle or soak an old towel..squeeze it out somewhat.. and use that to soak and blot.
Greasy stains.. a bucket with a few inches of water..a dab of dish washing liquid just to get it sudsy..not too much. Just get the water sudsy. Some loud rug dyes are sensitive.
Acid stains need neutralizing quickly.. clear water or a tspn of baking soda in a glass of
water will help minimize damage to dyes. A soaked wrung out towel or an empty spray bottle can provide the vehicle to introduce it to the affected area.
Acidic pet urine can weaken bright vegetable dyes in oriental rugs. It will help minimize the damage if you act quickly.. Depends on the quality of the dyes..the acidic strength of the urine..and other intricate variables..not always a miracle cure.
You may have to turn the rug around sometimes or do a little creative furniture rearranging if
this did not save the day. Spot-dying can sometimes help with stains.
Red wine stains or grape juice with red tannins ..Use white wine or diluted white vinegar to reverse stain (vinegar also helps with coffee and tea stains that have not yet set). * Too much vinegar can loosen bright vegetable dyes..earthtone colors are usually more resistant. 'Diluted' is the key word here.
There are some really great spot-lifters out there. Test the back of the rug for color change.
Give it time. Walk away from it for a little while.. Closet corners are good to test carpet spotting products..somewhere you can't see..sometimes organic materials turn yellow with different
products..ie: chlorine based products on wool will do that..lye-based soap on silk(reversible with 6% peroxide)..
Blot spot area up with a dry towel. Step on it to blot. Or use your wet/vac. Use the hose end only for better suction .. forget the tools. Scrub and clean the end (inside the hose rim too) of that hose well so old residuals will not stain your spotting project. Don't get too vigorously rambunctious with the hose end..could cause fraying.
Plan B. Spot-dying might help cover the stain. Light color spots are easier to cover..oh well. Those spray dyes on art design t shirts are extremely durable and natural looking.. Also ..Fabric dye pens at the art store..the word fabric is significant..stable pen dyes. Take small rug or carry photo..make sure pix color is close to actual.. its all about the lighting. Test the back of rug first with dye to match..let dry to see final color match..back has no cosmetic value..don't fret. *Its not work here.. watch a happy kid with a coloring book..stay inside the lines.
Set boundaries with your pets:
*24/7 pet training collars take about 10 days (and then remove collar)to set boundaries on a room that you want to stay off limits. Static electric tingle in collar is activated when room is entered by a small flat plastic pad that plugs in to wall outlet..shuts off as they exit. Search the web for distributors.
Vacuum Cleaner Damage
Vaccuum your rug often. Keeps it clean longer between cleanings and gets the dust mites and particulates out so you can love your sinuses. Helps control home odors too. Most rugs are made to walk on so don't be afraid to keep it clean. Better for your health..better for the rug. If you really want to spoil your rug get a boar bristle spindle for your upright vaccuum. They are less abrasive than the nylon type. Frequently fringes get caught and chewed up by the rotating brush.Use attachements to avoid this like when you vacuum out the sofa..or at least raise the brush level if you should dare to skip this step. Don't pause over fringe if you do. Just keep rolling until you are clear of the fringe. Its risky but most shorter fringes will survive this ..longer fringes get snagged and rip. If your rug fringe is
shot we can hand sew new on. The ol' double stitch holds up nicely. If you do it yourself be sure to work the new fringe up under the knap before sewing it in so it looks original and stitchwork is low profile.
Rug Pads .. We can get them for you but they are widely available at discount outlets.
Pads under Oriental rugs can prevent sliding, prolong the life of the rug by cushioning the impact between shoe sole and hard floor surfaces, and provide comfort under foot. To determine if you need a pad, the rule of thumb is: a heavy, thick rug does not necessarily need one, whereas a thin, soft rug does, as does an older rug or a rug that has been rewoven or patched or which has a weakened foundation. While a pad can extend the life of any rug, whether or not to use a pad under a new rug is often a personal decision based upon your preference for the feel of the carpet underfoot. A pad should be about an inch smaller than the rug all the way around (not counting the fringe) so that the pad will not show beneath the rug.
Pads can be made of materials like rubber, felt, polyester, or one of a number of synthetic foams. For a number of years we have preferred pads for larger rugs made of a polyester felt about 3/8" thick. This material is quite dense and is mechanically strong. We have seen rubber pads crack and crumble around the edges with time, and occasionally rubber pads will become gummy and stick to an older floor finish or even to the back of the rug. Many of the synthetic urethane foam pads seem too soft and lightweight to provide much support to the rug.
TO PROPERLY POSITION
(After Rug Cleaning and Delivery is made we can reverse the rug to save wear at that time.)
GOT MOTHS ?
Moths love to lay their eggs in those hard to vaccuum areas. Toss some small cedar blocks in those areas. Get out the vacuum extension tools periodically. Disturb those little pests. Take care if you are allergic to cedar. Do not use mothballs in your personal environment. Not good for health.
Spotting moth activity.. Those 'rice hull' looking things you see under sofas and other secluded areas are evidence of moth hatchlings that love to feast on your rug's wool. Their parents look like yellow winged fruit flies on steroids.. not those beautiful night butterflies you often see banging against your porch light. Hook up the vac hose and vacuum them out..use that crevass tool but go easy with it ...can be a tad abrasive. That wet/dry vac out there in the garage has been waiting for this moment..just use the end of hose and wipe off well with wet towel..clean out that funky filter too before bringing that into the house.
A rug stored more than a few months should be cleaned and wrapped in protective plastic or a tough synthetic paper like "Tyvek"® building paper. Don't use newspaper or common brown wrapping paper. These materials are not chemically stable (they are usually quite acidic), and do not provide the protection from insects or moisture the stored rug needs. Make sure the rug is completely dry. Compressed moth balls last longer and leave less clinging odor after storage.. but the after-storage odor is still difficult to remove.
Rodents don't like mothballs. Sprinkle some moth balls around the area..ice pick some holes in a box and leave it. That helps disuade the little critters from setting up house. Attic storage with intense Houston summer heat..can dry rot rug fibers after a couple of years. They also seem to get forgotten up there we have noticed with many customers and wham..a couple of years go by and you have crackly rugs with dry-rot. Cold storage is great. Try Wald Storage. Good guys in biz for long time. Periodic inspection of the rug is recommended . Don't use those mothballs in your house where you can breathe them. Not good for you. The garage is a big problem with cats,rats and mice..but you may be limited in your options. If so cover with heavy plastic and chunk some mothballs around the top of it. This is a very temporary..not long-term solution. Cedar makes good nesting material for rodents but moths are discouraged. Some people are allergic to cedar. Moths and rodents are usually repelled by mothballs.
Rug Pads ..
Pads under Oriental rugs can prevent sliding, prolong the life of the rug by cushioning the impact between shoe sole and hard floor surfaces, and provide comfort under foot. A heavy, thick rug does not necessarily need one if the backing is not too rough and abrasive for the floor surface. A pad can extend the life of a rug and minimize wear in pathways. It should be about an inch smaller than the rug all the way around (not counting the fringe) so the rug will fall over the edge for a more level safer tread.
Pads can be made of materials like rubber, felt, polyester, or one of a number of synthetic foams. For a number of years we have preferred pads for larger rugs made of a polyester felt about 3/8" thick. This material is quite dense and is mechanically strong. Solid slab rubber pads can crack and crumble around the edges with time, and occasionally become gummy and stick to the floor or even to the back of the rug. Many of the synthetic urethane foam pads provide minimal function but still can help stop slipping and abrasion to flooring.
*The best pad seems to be the felt/rubber hybrid..pricey but enduring.
* Refringing and Binding
* Hole repair
* Reinforce Unraveling
* Stubborn Stain Work
* Heavy-Duty StainGard (pet & high-traffic)
* Rug Underlay.. non-slip & comfort pad
An authentic oriental rug is a handmade carpet that is either knotted with pile or woven without pile.
Oriental rugs are extremely cool floor-art from the orient. - rugs that come from (were made in) an Asian Country such as: China and Vietnam in the east to Turkey,
Maghreb countries, Cyprus and Iran in the west and the Caucasus in the north to India in the south. People from different cultures, countries, racial groups and religious faiths are often involved in
the production of oriental rugs. These are highly gregarious societies within societies..groups within groups..family oriented folks kind of like the old-folky pioneer days of America. Oriental rugs
are organized by origin: Persian rugs, Arab rugs, Anatolian rugs, Kurdish rugs, Caucasian rugs, Central Asian rugs, Turkestanian (Turkmen, Turkoman) rugs, Chinese rugs, Tibetan rugs and Indian
rugs.An authentic oriental rug is a handmade carpet that is either knotted with pile or woven without pile.
A carpet is a textile floor covering consisting of an upper layer of "pile" attached to a backing. The pile is generally either made from wool or a manmade fibre
such as polypropylene, nylon or polyester and usually consists of twisted tufts which are often heat-treated to maintain their structure.
Carpet binding is a term used for any material being applied to the edge of a carpet to make a rug. Carpet binding is usually cotton or nylon, but also comes in many other materials, such as leather. Non-synthetic binding is frequently used with bamboo, grass, and wool rugs, but is often used with carpet made from other materials.
Rug fringe is either a part of the rug weave in oriental rugs or sewn on if machine made. (replaced fringe on oriental rugs is often hand or machine sewn)
713 290 9600
Food spills/Pet urine
Pet urine can cause some color runs with bright oriental natural dyes . Modern Electrostatic dyes in power loomed design rugs are very durable and usually resist color runs form pet urine. Urine odor from dogs requires much flushing and with cats persistant intense flushing to get same results. Urine can chemically damage the structure of a rug by making the foundation hard and less supple in extreme cases.
Treat urine spots and food spills promptly if you can. Blot it up with paper towels or old towels or better yet use the wet/dry vac ..clean off hose end with a damp towel while running and reach in there with that towel last move and get inside of hose end wiped out. There you go.. now use end of hose to not scrub but blot action the stain. Use a clear water spray ..spray rinse vac repeat til satisfied. Put a little fan on it to dry. Roll some towels up under it. *if you can get a flat garbage bag under all this if you are using solutions that may harm wood floor..urine may have already..don't leave it under rug after spotwork drys ...may trap moisture.
A little caution here.. Dyes run its very true..but usually its the acidic leavings of our pet carnivores that have loosened up the vegetable dyes on orientals..And of course the panic that sets in before company comes and you grab the air freshener and get a little too close with a little to much to disquise the wafting odors..and then maybe a little later some cleaning chemicals to get the stuff out . Well ..those dyes just didn't have a chance did they?
Consider getting a little box of Arm & Hammer Super Pet Fresh powder in the local grocer's soap or pet aisle. Smells great ! Not too sickenly sweet and over--powering. Neutralizes the acids and deodorizes. (helps limit damage to dye). Dessicates the residuals from the pet deposit. . and when you can justify cleaning the rest of rug (which is still in good shape at that moment)..you can call us later..unless it just extremely bugs you then give us a call. We have discounts.
*Note here that loosened dyes from the carnivore urine or propellant or spot care agents may have the 'appearance' of a 'run' (fuzzy ,faded color) before cleaning or not visible but still very much loosened until .the cause is prior to the effect you see when dyes are flushed out in cleaning process.
Especially bright colors in vegetable dyes are the most likely to run even in normal use rugs. Swipe those bright colors with a white cloth or napkin. Some color comes off..definitely don't try to clean it. yourself. Earth tone color dyes are usually safer..more practical.Cat leavings are the worst..can loosen dyes. I still love my kittys. (more on perimeter controlled electro-static discharge collars for controlling their deposits later)
A smaller rug can be taken outside and rinsed with a hose and cool water (try not to saturate the whole rug--it will take much longer to dry if you do but it can also cause water-marks on cotton based rugs but that is mostly reversible.). With a larger carpet, the corner or edge can be laid in a plastic dishpan and saturated with cool water or a bucket or plastic garbage can can be placed under the wet area of the carpet and cool water poured through the rug (make a hollow in the carpet over the container before you pour, and don't exceed the capacity of the container under the rug!). Add about 1 cup of white vinegar per gallon to the rinse water--vinegar helps prevent colors from running and will help neutralize the urine odor.( in most vegetable dyes ..however Turkish red dyes are a little schizzy (skitzy) ..remember vinegar is acetic ACID..so go easy on it ok?)
After the rug has been rinsed, blot dry and sponge with rug shampoo(avoid lye-based soaps..try ph neutral..even baby shampoo litely sudsy solution) or with the solution given below. Let dry thoroughly (drying a wet area of a larger carpet can be hastened by arranging the carpet so that air can circulate both top and bottom--drape the end of the carpet across a lawn chair, or put a sawhorse or painted bench under the rug in the area of the wet spot).Keep shifting it to avoid buckles..(periodically)
Pet stool, regurgitation
(Do not read this before lunch unless you are in forensics,plumbing, the rug cleaning business,or have changed numerous diapers)
If a pet heaves on a rug, you are faced with removing digestive enzymes and stomach acids.( acid stronger in carnivore acdic digestive system) .. If a pet regurgitates or defecates on a rug, clean the area immediately by picking up as much material as possible with paper towels or with a clean, white cloth. If necessary, use a tablespoon to scrape up all the foreign material. Not too vigorously..especially on chinese rugs..can scratch permanently. Blot the area dry and immediately sponge several times with rug shampoo or very diluted dish washing solution (just a little to get water sudsy) Sponge in the direction of the nap..keeps it from looking scruffy when it drys.
*static electric training collars designed to work within a 15 ft perimeter field of target area.. are a quick deterrant for the offending pet ..doesn't take long to reprogram behaviour..usually a couple of weeks.
Spot Cleaning Solution
1/4 cup white vinegar*
1/2 tsp liquid dishwashing detergent
2 cups tepid water
*Most Oriental rug dyes are acid-fast. By adding a little white vinegar to the wash water you make the wash water more acidic, and this reinforces the bond between the dyestuff and the wool in the rug, and so helps prevent the colors from running.. but if carnivore juices are in the picture loose dyes can be a problem. Carnivores have an acidic digestive system..for efficient macroprotein breakdown .
*side note..Particularly male pets mark territory in one spot..positive side of that is one problem to deal with..but its concentrated more likely to color run reds and dark blues..Females helter-skelter here and there to show availability to male population which is usually less harmful to dyes but whew odor areas are numerous to track down and deal with..nuff said
Might want to put a flat garbage bag or sheet of plastice under spot project area to protect wood floors...that hand sprayer comes in handy here for not over wetting.
Finally, sponge the area with cool, clean water to finish. Use absorbent towels or a firm, non-shedding sponge..or stand on a old towel folded over and do the twist dance step on it moderately. Don't use a brush so stiff that it pulls fibers from the pile. Don't scrub hard at the pile..some rugs are sensitive to permanent scruffiness. Sponge in the direction of the nap. Place some towels under the spot to keep floor or pad from getting wet. Dry thoroughly. When the nap feels dry, check the back of the rug to be sure the area is completely dry. Good luck.
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Enlarged photo of a rug mite.
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