the wet/dry vac is a friend indeed for spotwork
1/4 cup white vinegar*
1/2 tsp liquid dishwashing detergent
2 cups tepid water
Keep it simple. Don't panic. Just follow thru. Spot Cleaning and Spills
Time to use that wet/dry vac..(wipe off hose end with damp towel to avoid residual staining )
Hand spray bottle a highly diluted solution appropriate to nature of spill. *Diluted white vinegar works great for fresh wine spills ..grape juice. .reverses tannins. Spray bottles are great helps.
Grease based stains.. sprinkle of degreaser to glass of water pour in larger container to avoid slopping solution..hand dish washing liquid works well..just enough to make slightly sudsy to big glass of water proportion..NOT TOO MUCH degreaser ..can yellow!... Do not scrub vigorously. .can scruffy roughen the rug pile. Rub in direction of knap only on low pile rugs..chineses..silks..otherwise it will look rough after it drys. Not easy to reverse scruffy once it happens but much easier to avoid . Take it easy. Ease it out. Best to work on it just after it happens..or put a damp towel over it if you have to temporarily postpone on non grease based stain especially. Folded over towel stepped on works in a pinch without the wet vac. Put a flat garbage bag under your work to avoid harming wood floors or other sensitive surfaces.
Spray clear water to rinse out stain cleaner.. White wine or white vinegar reverses tannin stains
vac or blot with clear water hand spray as final touch..extract.
sidenote*Silk turns yellow with chlor based cleaners. Wool is usually less sensitive.
Hi dilution / water safer choice. Vac thoroughly. Use small fan to dry spotwork on low setting . Towels rolled to sides of stainwork can lift rug for fan to get under..avoid leaving too long after drying ..can pucker some stiffer backed rugs..then you have to steam the back with a clothes steamer to straighten it out..arggh..its avoidable so pull towels when spot is almost dry to touch. Use your phone alarm to avoid time lapse* most rugs won't pucker..the looser backed rugs..modern stiff carpet backed design rugs are usually the culprit if it happens at all.
avoid red dye drinks in sodas and mixes..they are really difficult to remove..just plain soda drinks are easy..blot out with clear water
Pet stool, regurgitation
(see article below)
CHECK RUG'S CONDITION:
1. Pick up corner of rug. Hold it.Kick it. A cloud of dirt and dust flies out.
Time to get it cleaned.
2. Kneel down on the rug. Rub vigorously with hand (I would use an old cloth) in a short arc five to ten seconds. Look at fingers and palm.. If your hand is dirty.. Time to get it cleaned. Rug Mite macropix
3.With pile facing up fold part of rug back upon itself so that the pile opens along a line of knots. Look into the base of the pile. If the warp and weft appear soiled dirt lurks deep down in the fibers where a cleaner can not reach. Time to get it cleaned !
TO PROPERLY POSITION RUG
High-traffic rugs ..periodically turn the rug around so that the pathways will be reversed. Sometimes creative furniture rearranging may be utilized to reroute
Vacuum Cleaner DamageVaccuum your rug often. Keeps it clean longer between cleanings and gets the dust mites and particulates out so you can love your sinuses. Helps control home odors too. Most rugs are made to walk on so don't be afraid to keep it clean. Better for your health..better for the rug. If you really want to spoil your rug get a boar bristle spindle for your upright vaccuum. They are less abrasive than the nylon type. Frequently fringes get caught and chewed up by the rotating brush
.Use those accessory attachements to avoid destroying your fringe when you vacuum..you know the attachements you vacuum out the sofa with..or at least raise the brush level if you should dare to skip this step. Don't pause over fringe if you do. Just keep rolling until you are clear of the fringe. Its risky. I'm not recommending it but it can work with common 3 inch fringes no longer.. but I'm not recommending it. Really.
Food spills/Pet urine
is one of the most common spills and can cause s
ome major problems with your rug. It can cause severe color run in the rug, and the odor can be very hard to remove or disguise. Urine can also chemically damage the structure of a rug by making the foundation hard and less supple, andthe presence of urine in a rug can attract moths..but usually in less trafficked rooms or in those hard to vaccuum cubby holes under sofas and hutches.
CONDITIONS: PET LEAVINGS AND HEAVINGS.. Meat eaters have strong acids not good for vegetable dyes and other organic materials (wool,silk,cotton,jute) in rugs.
Get the bulk of it up asap with an old towel ,paper towels, a shop vac.. Just get it up !
Avoid dark or bright colored towels for cleanup on a light color rug. Dyes could come off of towel and may add to the problem. If necessary, use a tablespoon to scrape up all the foreign material. Gently ! Take care not to gouge or scratch the rug. Use common sense..especially with Chinese rugs.They scratch.
Try to scrape in the same direction as it may later yield a scruffy rough appearance to the disturbed area difficult to correct later. Its an avoidable problem.Blot the area dry and immediately sponge several times with clear water or if oil based a mild degreaser diluted (just a little to get water sudsy) Remember to sponge in the direction of the nap..keeps it from looking rough when it drys.
Here is the traditional solution:
Spot Cleaning Solution
*Most Oriental rug dyes are acid-fast. By adding a little white vinegar (acetic acid) to the wash water you make the solution more acidic, and this reinforces the bond between the dyes and the wool in the rug, and so helps prevent the colors from running..I don't know how it works..it just does. but if our meat eating canivoric four-legged friends are in the picture..well it is what it is.. loose dyes can be a problem because of those powerful digestive juices and their aftermath. Afterthought: Fabric protectors can help guard rug fibers and dyes if it happens and electronic pet collars can just keep them off of it for a brief 24/7 2 week training period. They can have the rest of the house. That seems fair especially regarding expensive rugs.
Finally, sponge the area with cool, clean water to finish. Use absorbent towels or a firm, non-shedding sponge..or stand on an old towel folded over and use a twisting motion..preferably to music but not with too much attitude because it can be abusive to the rug. Don't use a brush so stiff that it pulls fibers from the pile. Don't scrub too hard at the pile. Be gentle ! Easy does it ! Pride of ownership. (It was a mistake. Save your anger for Houston traffic. A security guard would cost much more than your dog to employ and the dog works 24/7 and worships you.And regarding cats..Have you seen the size of the rats in this town? ) Sponge in the direction of the nap. Place some towels under the spot to keep floor or pad from getting wet. Dry thoroughly. When the nap feels dry, check the back of the rug to be sure the area is completely dry. Usually one is triumphant with most common scenarios although red food dyes resident in table scraps and cheaper pet foods can be most stubborn but even then stain can be minimized somewhat with some helpful home remedies.
Red dyes can be problem. Rub red dyes / dry napkin..if it comes off easy..arrgh..only so much I can say here without going encylopedic. I have covered basics though.
* Rug Storage note..Discourage rodents when storing rugs ..consider the kids and pets . Use caution. Accidently killed my good dog once by not high shelving dang rat poison. Please use caution.
Rug Pads .. We can get them for you but they are widely available at discount outlets and we will charge you more because of the service. We will curtsy
and cut them to size..move heavy furniture and intall them properly..and even say thank you.
Pads under Oriental rugs can prevent sliding, prolong the life of the rug by cushioning the impact between shoe sole and hard floor surfaces, and provide comfort under foot ( or elsewhere if you fall). To determine if you need a pad, the rule of thumb is: a heavy, thick rug does not necessarily need one, whereas a thin, soft rug does, as does an older rug or a rug that has been rewoven or patched or which has a weakened foundation. While a pad can extend the life of any rug, whether or not to use a pad under a new rug is often a personal decision based upon your preference for the feel of the carpet underfoot. If you wear stillettos a deep cushion carpet can be hazardous but it feels great on your bare tootsies) A pad should be about an inch smaller than the rug all the way around (not counting the fringe) so that the pad will not show beneath the rug and will taper down safely so that you will not catch your toe on it and trip. If a pad shifts like that just cut it off about an inch under for safety or move all the furniture off and properly reposition the rug. Whatever works for you.
Pads can be made of materials like rubber, felt, polyester, or one of a number of synthetic foams. For a number of years we have preferred pads for larger rugs made of a polyester felt about 3/8" thick. This material is quite dense and is mechanically strong. We have seen rubber pads crack and crumble around the edges with time, and occasionally rubber pads will become gummy and stick to an older floor finish or even to the back of the rug. Many of the synthetic urethane foam pads seem too soft and lightweight to provide much support to the rug.
TO PROPERLY POSITION
(After Rug Cleaning and Delivery is made we can reverse the rug to save wear at that time.)
GOT MOTHS ?
Moths love to lay their eggs in those hard to vaccuum areas. Toss some small cedar blocks in those areas. Get out the vacuum extension tools periodically. Disturb those little pests. Take care if you are allergic to cedar. Do not use mothballs in your personal environment. Not good for health.
Spotting moth activity.. Those 'rice hull' looking things you see under sofas and other secluded areas are evidence of moth hatchlings that love to feast on your rug's wool. Their parents look like yellow winged fruit flies on steroids.. not those beautiful night butterflies you often see banging against your porch light.
Make sure the rug is completely dry. Compressed moth balls last longer and leave less clinging odor after storage.. but the after-storage odor is still difficult to remove. After 2 yrs a hot attic can dry rot rugs. Rodent prevention good idea but please consider children and pets.
Use those mothballs
where you can NOT breathe them.
Rug Pads .. Felt / rubber combo seems to behave for larger rugs.
Thin Non-Slip pad best for small rugs that can slide...look like rubberized netting.
* Refringing and Binding
* Hole repair
* Reinforce Unraveling
* Stubborn Stain Work
* Heavy-Duty StainGard (pet & high-traffic)
* Rug Underlay.. non-slip & comfort pad
An authentic oriental rug is a handmade carpet that is either knotted with pile or woven without pile.
Oriental rugs are extremely cool floor-art from the orient. - rugs that come from (were made in) an Asian Country such as: China and Vietnam in the east to Turkey,
Maghreb countries, Cyprus and Iran in the west and the Caucasus in the north to India in the south. People from different cultures, countries, racial groups and religious faiths are often involved in
the production of oriental rugs. These are highly gregarious societies within societies..groups within groups..family oriented folks kind of like the old-folky pioneer days of America. Oriental rugs
are organized by origin: Persian rugs, Arab rugs, Anatolian rugs, Kurdish rugs, Caucasian rugs, Central Asian rugs, Turkestanian (Turkmen, Turkoman) rugs, Chinese rugs, Tibetan rugs and Indian
rugs.An authentic oriental rug is a handmade carpet that is either knotted with pile or woven without pile.
A carpet is a textile floor covering consisting of an upper layer of "pile" attached to a backing. The pile is generally either made from wool or a manmade
fibre such as polypropylene, nylon or polyester and usually consists of twisted tufts which are often heat-treated to maintain their structure.
Carpet binding is a term used for any material being applied to the edge of a carpet to make a rug. Carpet binding is usually cotton or nylon, but also comes in many other materials, such as leather. Non-synthetic binding is frequently used with bamboo, grass, and wool rugs, but is often used with carpet made from other materials.
Rug fringe is either a part of the rug weave in oriental rugs or sewn on if machine made. (replaced fringe on oriental rugs is often hand or machine sewn)
Food spills/Pet urine
Pet urine is one of the most common spills and can cause some major problems with your rug. It can cause severe color run in the rug, and the odor can be very hard to remove or disguise. Urine can also chemically damage the structure of a rug by making the foundation hard and less supple, and the presence of urine in a rug can help attract moths..but usually in less trafficked rooms or in those hard to vaccuum cubby holes under sofas and hutches.
Repeated wettings can cause the foundation of the rug to loose mechanical strength to the point where the rug cracks and breaks when rolled or folded..but this is in extreme cases. (attic storage in high heat is usually the culprit there)
In case of a food spill or urine on a rug, the problem is much more easily handled if the spot is treated promptly, before the spill is allowed to dry. Blot up as much liquid as possible with paper towels or a clean, white cloth. Try to rinse out as much of the spill as possible.Get an old towel..fold it over, and stand on it . Put on that old classic Beatles album and do the twist without the vigorous gyrations that can create knaptwist in wimpy rugs..but be firm.Watch your back. Chiropractor visits are not what you are are aiming for here..
A little caution here.. Dyes run its very true..but usually its the acidic leavings of our pet carnivores that have loosened up the vegetable dyes on orientals..And of course the panic that sets in before company comes and you grab the air freshener and get a little too close with a little to much to disquise the wafting odors..and then maybe a little later some cleaning chemicals to get the stuff out . Well ..those dyes just didn't have a chance did they?
Consider getting a little box of Arm & Hammer Super Pet Fresh powder in the local grocer's soap or pet aisle. Smells great ! Not too sickenly sweet and over--powering. Neutralizes the acids and deodorizes. (helps limit damage to dye). Dessicates the residuals from the pet deposit. . and when you can justify cleaning the rest of rug (which is still in good shape at that moment)..you can call us later..unless it just extremely bugs you then give us a call. We have discounts.
*Note here that loosened dyes from the carnivore urine or propellant or spot care agents may have the 'appearance' of a 'run' (fuzzy ,faded color) before cleaning or not visible but still very much loosened until .the cause is prior to the effect you see when dyes are flushed out in cleaning process.
Especially bright colors in vegetable dyes are the most likely to run even in normal use rugs. Swipe those bright colors with a white cloth or napkin. Some color comes off..definitely don't try to clean it. yourself. Earth tone color dyes are usually safer..more practical.Cat leavings are the worst..can loosen dyes. I still love my kittys. (more on perimeter controlled electro-static discharge collars for controlling their deposits later)
A smaller rug can be taken outside and rinsed with a hose and cool water (try not to saturate the whole rug--it will take much longer to dry if you do but it can also cause water-marks on cotton based rugs but that is mostly reversible.). With a larger carpet, the corner or edge can be laid in a plastic dishpan and saturated with cool water or a bucket or plastic garbage can can be placed under the wet area of the carpet and cool water poured through the rug (make a hollow in the carpet over the container before you pour, and don't exceed the capacity of the container under the rug!). Add about 1 cup of white vinegar per gallon to the rinse water--vinegar helps prevent colors from running and will help neutralize the urine odor.( in most vegetable dyes ..however Turkish red dyes are a little schizzy (skitzy) ..remember vinegar is acetic ACID..so go easy on it ok?)
After the rug has been rinsed, blot dry and sponge with rug shampoo(avoid lye-based soaps..try ph neutral..even baby shampoo litely sudsy solution) or with the solution given below. Let dry thoroughly (drying a wet area of a larger carpet can be hastened by arranging the carpet so that air can circulate both top and bottom--drape the end of the carpet across a lawn chair, or put a sawhorse or painted bench under the rug in the area of the wet spot).Keep shifting it to avoid buckles..(periodically)
Preventing Pet stool, regurgitation 24/7:
A 24/7 Pet Stain Preventative Scenario.. Dry cold air in the winter. You touch a door knob and a mild shock. Next time you may even be talking on your cell phone but you remember before touching the door knob again. Programmed but not traumatized. *Mildly Static electric training collars will help keep the pet off of your favorite parlor rug and out of that room.
How it works : A plug-in flat plastic pad with a long cord placed under rug or on top for a short training period and on to other areas you do not want violated. The collar is activated with a mild static electric discharge (like a shock from a door knob in winter) when the pet returns to the area. Training periods vary with personality and intelligence levels of individual or breed. Available online or local pet stores.
Great for stubborn pet rugs..high-traffic rugs..food-area rugs..business lobby rugs..and all fine washable rugs. Lye-based soaps and chemical presprays are commonly used to make up for the lower pressure in standard rinse systems that are typically 300psi (common water faucet pressure) rinses. Loose vegetable dyes and loss of lanolin (sheen and life of rug) can be affected by harsh prespray chemicals commonly used to sublimate traditional systems.
Organic Content.. Wool,cotton,silk..and jute backings commonly used in hand-made oriental rugs and fine custom design rugs can be adversely affected by otherwise harsh techniques meant for synthetic carpet with its tough polymers.
Most effective for the cleaning of area rugs and oriental rugs yet safer for your rug..
ORIENTAL RUGS are made in Asia..From the Orient..The Far East.. China and Vietnam in the east to
Turkey, Maghreb countries, Cyprus and Iran in the west and the Caucasus in the north to India in the south. People from different cultures, countries, racial groups and religious faiths are involved
in the production of oriental rugs. Oriental rugs are organized by origin: Persian rugs, Arab rugs, Anatolian rugs, Kurdish rugs, Caucasian rugs, Central Asian rugs, Turkestanian (Turkmen, Turkoman)
rugs, Chinese rugs, Tibetan rugs and Indian rugs. An authentic oriental rug is a handmade carpet that is either knotted with pile or woven without pile.
AREA RUGS are power-loomed factory-made like modern clothing is today. The dyes are clothing dyes (electro-static).. not ancient vegetable dyes . Modern dyes seem to be more resistant to color runs and fade. Styles vary between oriental rug art & modern design themes.
Remove years of traffic soil build-up. It is safe ! Even-flow Distribution creates equal pressure on surface tension. A much better RINSE..monumentally better rinse for flushing out dried fecal matter,food,moth eggs,dust mites,impacted soil and old lingering traffic soil stains out of all washable rugs .Free pickup & delivery Houston area.
Safe ! Even flow distribution creates equal pressure on surface tension.
Gentle but firm enough to get the job done nicely.
Great for pet rugs.. high-traffic rugs.. and all washable rugs.
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